The territory of Bizkaia, historically poor for agriculture, has, on the other hand, gathered the necessary ingredients for an early development of metallurgy. A soil rich in iron ore and a mountainous orography, characterized by the presence of short but fast-flowing rivers and populated by extensive beech and oak forests, are the elements that have favored this secular vocation.
As we have already seen, within this millenary panorama, the hydraulic forges were the protagonists, at least from the 14th century until their definitive decline in the 19th century. At the height of their splendor, in the mid-16th century, it is estimated that in Bizkaia and Gipuzkoa alone there were some 300 facilities of this type, which probably constituted the largest concentration in Europe.
A heritage resource available to all
Unlike modern iron and steel activity, which is much more concentrated, ironworks were scattered fairly evenly along the river basins, that is to say, throughout the territory. This geographical dispersion, their very constructive robustness, together with their traditional location in remote rural environments, have explained why a good number of vestiges of that past have survived to the present day. Two centuries of abandonment and general disinterest have not managed to erase their presence.
Nowadays, finding the ruins of a complex of this type in any bend of a river, with its dam, its hydraulic channel, its coal bunkers… sometimes accompanied by the tower house of the owner’s lineage… is a discovery that gives a touch of romanticism to our hiking routes.
Dams
Associated with forges, mills or other types of pre-industrial installations, dams are the architectural element that has best survived the passage of time. A study promoted in 1990 by the Department of Culture of the Provincial Council of Bizkaia, made it possible to inventory 172 dams in this territory alone. Their typology is varied. There are straight, arched or buttressed dams, also mixed models and within all of them, dams can be gravity or not… They also vary in terms of construction materials: there are ashlar, masonry, concrete dams…
The arch and buttress dams designed by Pedro Bernardo Villarreal de Bérriz stand out for their constructive quality, proportions and aesthetic interest. He was a member of the Basque nobility who lived between the 17th and 18th centuries. His vocation for the study of mathematics and his practical sense made him a true precursor of the spirit of the Enlightenment. His work Máquinas hidráulicas de molinos y herrerías y govierno de los árboles y montes de Vizcaya (1736), had a great influence on 18th century engineering.
He himself owned the rights to several forges and mills and, in addition, he managed the rights inherited by his wife, which allowed him to put his knowledge into practice, designing and building some of the most spectacular dams in our environment. Good examples are the dams of Errotabarri (Gizaburuaga) and Lariz-Olaeta, in the waters of the Lea. In the Artibai basin, the Ansotegi (Etxebarria) and Barroeta or Oxilloin (Markina) dams are still preserved, and in the Ibaizabal basin, the Bedia dam.
Ironworks that stand the test of time
Nowadays it is difficult to find remains of ironworks that preserve enough elements for a correct interpretation. The vast majority of the groups have simply disappeared, and are now the subject of archaeological studies. However, in a few cases in which the forges managed to adapt their activity and sustain themselves for more years, their current ruins still allow us to approach the past. We will highlight some examples that, for their evocative capacity, are certainly worth a visit.
In Zalla, on the banks of the Kadagua, we can visit the monumental complex of Bolumburu, today converted into a recreational area. The complex consists of the ruins of the forges, an old mill, the hermitage of Santa Ana (1610) and the tower-house of Bolunburu. Not far away, in the same municipality, is the complex of La Mella, formed by the hermitage of San Antonio, the palace of Urrutia, the tower of Terreros, two forges, a mill and several houses.
Although of the complex of Anuntzibai, in Orozko, as a characteristic element of the forge only the ruins of the coal bunkers remain, it is worth the visit to know the spectacular bridge that joined the forge facilities with the old tower house of the lineage (today palace of Anuncibai). It is a work of the eighteenth century in which highlights the presence of a monumental triumphal arch.
Especially interesting is the visit to the Bengolea complex, in Gizaburuaga, linked to Pedro Bernardo Villarreal de Berriz. It is a large double forge formed by an enormous coal bunker, several spaces for the collection of the mineral, three flour mills, a reservoir and a bridge with two eyes. It was undoubtedly one of the most complex forges in the Basque Country.
An example of recovery: El Pobal
The forge of El Pobal, in Muzkiz, is a leading example of heritage recovery for interpretative and educational purposes. It was built at the beginning of the 16th century by the Salazar family, although its period of greatest splendor would begin at the end of the 17th century, when the workshop was enlarged and the dam, the channel, the forepart and the hydraulic tunnel were rebuilt. The productive complex was completed by the forgers’ house, which originally looked like a tower house, a mill and a bread oven.
In uninterrupted activity until 1965, this ability to survive explains why it has preserved conditions suitable for its enhancement. Once recovered, it was opened to the public in 2004, functioning since then as a living museum where visitors can see in operation the two most important pre-industrial activities of Bizkaia: the manufacture of iron and milling.
The forges are part of a unique historical legacy that still survives in the landscape and culture of our territory. Walking through their remains is an invitation to discover the trace of centuries of work and tradition, connecting with a past that is still alive in every stone, every river and every path.
